Not a Tattoo...

Initial starting design

A friend wanted to get a tattoo to memorialize her family members, but she knew her dad would not approve of a tattoo... so she asked me about making a butterfly bracelet. 

As we spoke about the bracelet I asked about her parents and grandparents and found the love of roses and irises were as strong as butterflies. She also wanted to include their birthstones on the butterfly.

An idea began to evolve. I instinctively leaned toward sterling silver metal clay - because that's my first go-to... and then I thought about my new classic metalsmithing skills and wondered about doing it in sterling sheet... and then it hit me - sterling sheet w/ enamel! I could add color to it to really bring it alive. We hadn't considered color in the initial discussions.

More discussion and I found it was yellow roses and purple irises. As I worked the design, filigree seemed to fit perfectly allowing the wings of the butterfly to be open and fragile looking like a butterfly wings would be.

The focal is less than 2" wide approx 1" tall and the spaces for the birthstones were very tiny so I opted to "create" the colors using my enamels. Turquoise, Garnet and Peridot - got those pretty quick, the opal concerned me but with some "fiddling" I got an opal I was pretty pleased with!

Some process shots ...

Layers cut from sterling sheet

Pieces stacked to test fit

Pieces soldered together, cell
wires added and filigree wing wires

Fired and pickled many times
in prep for enameling

Initial layers of enamel

Additional layers of enamel

Finished focal with enameled
"birthstones"

Chainmaille bracelet w entwined
rings, birthstone dangle & mag clasp

Once the focal was finished we looked at sterling wire bangle, leather, ribbon and finally decided that it needed a silver chain - so I created a chain including two pair of entwined larger rings in a "love knot" style on each side of the focal to again incorporate the family members being remembered - I added a fifth one near the closure to represent my friend and dangled HER birthstone from the focal.

This was truly a labor of love and I used almost every skill I have learned and loved every minute of working it out. I am thankful that she allowed me the freedom to create this piece for her and I enjoyed sharing the process with her along the way - loving the "ohhhs and ahhhs" she gave me in return! 

So happy she opted to NOT get a tattoo! :o)

Finished piece on the wrist of a pleased
daughter and grand daughter

Amethyst Squared... or rather Cubed! ;o)

Stepping outside my box - more into fabrication... what am I saying - TOTAL fabrication!! Some of my friends refer to this as "from scratch". :o)

I had two 8mm square Amethyst cabochons that I had put aside for a friends February birthday and they were yelling to me... MAKE SOMETHING!! I wanted to set them but lordy I have not set square cabs ... have never made a square bezel... never mind a square bezel cup - sides and bottom!!

Out came the design book one evening, then transfer design to Photoshop (just something I do) and then I waited for Friday and for the work-work day to be over.

I have to tell you, something incredible happened Friday evening - the "Studio Gods" smiled on me. NEVER have I felt more in sync with materials, process, design. I felt like I was in an awesome groove. No melted wires, no messed up bezel cups, no waste, no bumped head!!

I started with "the hard part"... the bezel cups made from Sterling and Fine Silver that the gems are supposed to sit in. I figured... If I could do this, I could do the rest! Measure, wrap, measure again, cut, trial fit, file, clean, solder... sides! Place on sheet metal, solder, fit, trim, file, clean, retest fit... cup!! Now they were tall - prob 2x taller than needed. So I marked them, sawed off the excess, filed and cleaned up. DONE! ;o)

NOW For the base - thanks to my obsession with having to buy tools that look cool, different, "may need that some day" or "ohhh that's a good inexpensive version of what I "might need" let's try it til I think I REALLY need it"... I have a weird set of plastic stepped mandrels in different shapes. The largest size square was perfect for what I wanted for the base of the earrings. I formed the base using Sterling Silver square wire and the square plastic stepped mandrel - shaped, checked, pushed, checked, cut, checked, soldered... checked - sweeeet! ;) 

Then I cut two squares from the Sterling Silver sheet, filed the edges, rounded the corners a touch to keep from wounding anyone. Then I formed the twisted Sterling Silver wire to form the "ropes". I placed, checked and then soldered the "ropes" onto the base square, cleaned the piece and then placed and soldered the top decorative

square onto the base and "ropes". Cleaned again and then placed and soldered the bezel cups onto the bottom of the earring base. 

The two pieces went into the pickle pot to clean and I went to work forming the pierced earring post... I have a small (SMALL - like 1" x 2" MAYBE) steel draw plate that I use to make the posts. First I use a mini torch to ball the ends of a 1" piece of Sterling Silver wire (when you hold it into the flame it forms a ball and it slowly creeps up the wire forming a bigger ball). Once cooled I put the wire in the smallest hole it will fit in inside the draw plate (which is being held by my small (SMALL! ;o)) vice. And I wack the ball with a hammer. This flattens out the ball forming a flat top instead of a ball. THIS I have found makes soldering a post onto an earring back MUCH MUCH EASIER. The posts were then soldered onto the earring bases and the two completed but not set earrings were pickled one more time and I was done for the evening! ::phew:: Nothing. Went. Wrong. STILL!! 

The next night all the cleaned and rinsed pieces were ready to have the Amethysts set. I still felt the cups may be a 'touch' to tall so I cut two pieces of PVC card to fit into the cups (1 each). The cabochon went on top and POOF perfect height. Slowly I pushed the edges (starting at the corners) in - moving the metal slowly and not scratching the stone. and finally... they were set. I cleaned up the pieces, burnished the cups and base pieces and then tossed them into the tumbler with stainless steel shot to harden and shine. The next day they came out, were rinsed off, the posts trimmed, scratch brush used on the top square to give it texture and a matte finish. A purchased Sterling Silver earring nut was added to both and they were complete. 




This was THE BEST project - I felt completely in sync with the materials and the project. Such fun pair of earrings and I'm very pleased with the outcome!

Size: 1.75" x 1.5"Stones: 8mm

Flights of Filigree

I have stepped out and ventured into the gloriously beautiful world of Filigree! I saw my first piece of incredible filigree jewelry in person when I went to a large artisan show in Lancaster PA and discovered by chance the work of Lisa Gallagher. Such tiny beautiful pieces w/ such tiny little pieces of twisted, shaped metal inside. I was, no I am... in awe.

That was 2 years ago... After buying books and looking at pieces and dreaming about trying it I finally said -  "Loug, just do it!" so this past weekend I made my first attempt.

The thought was that it would be an initial pin for my sister-in-law of a scarf. Although pleased that I was able to solder the pieces and get them to hold, it didn't come out as I imagined. Then I read some more of the Silver Threads book by Jeanne Rhodes-Moen... and realized that I should have used square wire (I used 18g round sterling) and I should have used Filigree wire (I used twisted 24g round sterling). I could have pounded out the twisted wire to more closely work like filigree wire but I kinda-sorta didn't read that indepth. So I decided... Let's try it again.

Here is attempt #2 a set of sterling silver leaf-shaped earrings with 6mm light blue (fabricated) cat's eye and 4mm moonstone cabochons. I chose the light blue Cat's Eye because I know she had asked for a pair of blue Chalcedony earrings last year for Christmas - and I chose the Moonstones because they are a pretty grey color and dark grey is her favorite color. I initially intended to make them "post" earrings so I pulled out some pre-made bezels for the stones and a pair of pre-made posts - all sterling silver.

This time I smartly hammered out about 14" of 24g twisted sterling silver to a nice flat piece of wire that has 'ribs' on the top and bottom. After doing that I needed to anneal it and that meant putting fire to it to soften it up again. After that - Pickle... that would become my mantra... shape, position, flux, solder, pickle... shape, position, flux, solder, pickle... ;o)

I designed the earrings - because I use a leaf with my logo on it as my jewelry tag I used that same shape for the earrings. It's a familiar feel I thought it would help me ease into the project. I worked in the stones - behind the blue stone was where I imagined the post would be for the earrings. Not heavily filigree'd but enough to get my feet wet and be pretty. I tend to start my designs in my design book and then move to my computer to work out some details. (Yes I have visions of owning one of the HP design pads that they use on Project Runway!).

Next step was to cut the 18g square sterling silver wire and shape it to form the outside of the leaf and the center "vein". The outside is one piece bent, formed and curved to fit the design... the "vein" is a single piece also formed and curved to fit. I trimmed the pieces so that the Cat's Eye bezels would fit right into the top of the leaf.

Now for the tricky part - well, to me. Snipping and shaping the inside "filigree" pieces that form the curls and twirls of the earrings center design. These little pieces are interesting to work with. The flattened twisted wire sometimes gave me "fits" but I have to say it was very fun to do. The top twirled piece on both earrings is actually in the form of a stylized up-side down heart. The Moonstone bezel will fit right into one of the twirls of the heart.

Now... step 6 which I don't have a picture for - soldering. I used my soldering block, small butane torch, easy and medium wire solder and flux. I am a klutz so to take a photo of the set-up w/ a torch ... nope wasn't happening. I thought about putting my tripod up but the 4-legged helpers were awake and that would cause interest in what I was doing more than they already had. (Here is a picture of my Sissy far enough away to be out of the way but close-enough to satisfy her need to be next to me.)

However I do have a picture of my NEW FAVORITE TOOL! My pickle pot is a small (dip size) crock pot that holds my pickling solution (I use Silver Prep as it's kinder to the environment) ... it is used to remove  

oxidation on the wire that comes from being heated by the torch. Apparently you need to remove the oxidation each time you solder. Well - walking the 10' to the kitchen each time I solder a piece was getting old so I thought hmmm I can get a small dish to put some in and put it on my mug warmer on my work station... My friend Beth reminded me to cover it so the "helpers" don't get into it by mistake. I thought ... cool - I have a tea cup from Hong Kong with a cover... and then I stopped in my tracks .. I HAVE A TEA CUP WITH A COVER *AND* A STRAINER! Now... if you don't do this you have no idea how cool this is... when you put small pieces into a pickle pot the hardest thing to do is get them back out of the pot... with the porcelain strainer your pieces sit in the pickle and are easier to get access too!! Too cool! My new favorite tool!!

I worked the placement and the soldering of the filigree wires and the Moonstone bezel and then after polling my FB fans (calDesign Naturals) I decided to forgo the posts and make ear wires instead. I soldered a 3" piece of 20g sterling silver onto the back of the Cat's Eye bezel to form into an earring wire later.

Here I laid the soldered pieces on the original design to see how close I got... not bad I think, not bad! I'm also looking to see if they are close to being similar left and right earrings.
The closer they are to the design the better off they will be when being worn.
 
A quick look at the back - I wanted to check the solder points. You want to be sure that they were smooth and would not catch on anything. I used a file to smooth these areas, double checked the ear wire placement and prepared to form the ear wires.

Forming Ear Wires... A couple bends with flat nose pliers, a twirl onto a pair of bail pliers and POOF I have some ear wires. They were about 1/2" to long so I trimmed then down, bent up the ends a little and - ear wires! :o)

Next is to put these in the tumbler. A tumbler will shine up the pieces as well as work-harden the pieces. Each time it is soldered, the heat will soften the wire. Work-hardening it will toughen the wire up so that it's not flimsy bend-able soft. And the "spahkle" it gives is wonderful!!

Last step is to put the stones in, shoot, package and send! A beautiful pair of earrings for my sister-in-law.

I hope she enjoys wearing them as much as I enjoyed creating them. And I can tell you I will DEFINITELY do this again. I love what I was able to create and want to do it again and try and work filigree into my metal clay designs!

Silver, Copper, Bronze... Color Combo Challenge And More!!

Hey!! Wow it's been a long time since my last blog - Lordy I feel like I just knelt down in a confessional! But seriously - so much has been going on in 2011 and I'm a bit behind in my reporting!!

You know me, you know my style - I tend to create pieces for specific people - gifts... with specific people in mind. Which means I think about the person, and pull bits and pieces of them into the design. Well that tends to make it difficult for me to ... just make. So in mid January I joined a Facebook group called "Color Combo Challenge". This group is fantastic. I've watched it grow from less than 50 people to over 200 in a few short months. Each Monday a combination (palette) of colors is picked (or voted on) and you have one week to create a piece in that palette - the pics are then posted on Sunday or Monday and then the new colors are announced. I've had SO much fun! Besides the craziness of trying to find materials in the right colors and then creating something "just because" I've met some super great people and learned so much!!

Here are some pics of the pieces I've done for the Color Combo Challenge (the color squares show you the color palette we had that week):

8_Brown/Black, Topaz, Seafoam, Mint and Dusty Mint Greens

Necklace and Earrings: Bronze, Pale Green Granite (yep granite), Amber Glass Beads, Topaz Swarovski Crystals, Peace Stone, Sesame Jasper, hand-made chain and ear wires from vintage bronze wire. One lamp work bead is in the center of the focal - created by That Bead Girl. The necklace is approx 22" and the earrings are approx 2 1/2" long from top of ear wire.
Bracelet: Bronze, Green Granite (this piece has cool sandy pieces in it), Topaz Swarovski Crystals, Peace Stone, Amazonite, Amber Lamp Work Spacer by That Bead Girl, hand-made chain and forged closure.
Bracelet approx 7 1/4" long.

9_Honeysuckle (Pink) & Russet
Click Here to Buy Necklace! - or - Click Here to Buy Earrings!

Necklace: Bronze hand-sculpted rose focal with hand-forged texture. Two shades of pink lampwork beads by That Bead Girl. Swaros - Light Colorado Topaz, Smoked Topaz and Rose. Brown & White Enamel beads made by me (!) with hand-forged Antique Bronze wire work. Finished off with pink suede cord and hand-forged Antique Bronze hook with lampwork bead.

Earrings: Bronze flower drops with hand-forged texture. Pink Lampwork beads by That Bead Girl, Swaros - Light Colorado Topaz and Smoked Topaz. Antique Bronze wire.



11_ Mauves & Olive done with lamp work, Swarovski crystals,
vintage bronze and hand-dyed silk cord
Click Here to Buy Necklace! - or - Click Here to Buy Earrings!

Necklace: Beautiful lamp work heart by Bastille Bleu Lampwork and jungle twilight lamp work beads by That Bead Girl combined with vintage bronze wire to create what I think is a pretty cute necklace. Notice the vintage 10mm pink ab swaros (unsure the exact color but will find out)!! ;o) Piece is finished off with hand coiled beads, cord caps and a hand-forged vintage bronze "s" hook.

Earrings: More jungle twilight lamp work beads by That Bead Girl combined with green and pink swaros, and vintage bronze hand-coiled beads on hand-forged ear wires



12_Coral & Seafoam done with Fossil Coral Beads, Adventurine, Green Flourite, Red Jasper, Dark & Light Coral Czech Glass and Lampwork Beads and Bronze wire

SOLD... Necklace - Took the color challenge a little bit literal and used fossil coral beads for this necklace w/ adventurine and green flourite along w/ red jasper and coral & pink glass czech beads. Hand-forged bronze wire chain with hand-dyed silk cord. And two small lampwork beads at either end of the main focal section by That Bead Girl.

GIFTED... Earrings: Do not match the necklace - but I love these coral/pinky color shells (Strawberry Top Shells from Thunder Bird Supply). Matched w/ bronze hand-forged ear wires and coils along with VINTAGE peridot (or Chrysobryl (?sp)) swaros. I am checking on the Swaros.



14 - Teal/Seafoam/Royal - Bronze Component, Lampwork Beads,
African Jade and Blue Lapsis w/ Bronze Wire.
Bracelet - Bronze bracelet made from one of my bronze components, pretty blue/green lampwork beads by That Bead Girl, African Jade round beads and blue lapsis. Hand forged antique bronze wire chain. Closes with a square bronze toggle.



15 - Plum & Peach - Birds Eye Rayolite, Bronze Component,
Lampwork Beads, Harvest Stone, Swarovski Crystals w/ Bronze Wire.

Necklace - Birds Eye Rayolite focal surrounded by peach and plum lampwork spacers by That Bead Girl, Harvest Stone beads, and light peach Swarovski crystals. Purchased textured chain combined with bronze button component from my etsy shop as well as lampwork, Swarovski and harvest stone bead components. Hand forged closure. Necklace approx 20".

16_Pink Lemonade - Copper, Swarovski Crystals, Glass Beads,
Copper/Brass Wire, Copper Chain
Click Here to Buy Necklace! - or - Click Here to Buy Earrings!

Pink Lemonade Garden Party - Necklace & Earrings
Second try at 'beading' but first time on my own from start to finish. Came across a bracelet in a magazine this week that had these cool crystal bead components so I thought - hmmmm. Here's my try -

Necklace - "Beads" created from Sunflower, Vintage Rose, Rose Swarovski Crystals with size 15 pale pink glass beads. Combined with my own copper rose hips, hand-made jump rings from copper and brass twisted wire and Swarovski crystal w/ copper links. The toggle on this is a combination of Copper & Brass twisted wire and one of my copper twig with buds. Chains lengths are doubled to add to the flow.

Earrings - "Beads" created from Sunflower, Vintage Rose, Rose Swarovski Crystals with size 15 pale pink glass beads. Combined with my own copper rose hips as dangles. Hang from rose gold-filled ear wires for comfortable "non-greening" wear.



17_Green/Brown - Copper, Bronze, Swarovski Crystals, Harvest Stone,
Lamp work Beads, Suede Cording, Vintage Bronze Wire, Copper & Brass Chain
Click Here to Buy Me!

Necklace - dangle focal created from Lamp work beads by Bastille Bleu (rounds) combined with hand-coiled Vintage Bronze bail, patina'd Copper chain. Dangles are patina'd Copper Maple tree seed, Bronze rose hip, Swarovski crystals and a lamp work disc by That Bead Girl.

Focal hung from doubled beautiful green suede cord with side closure created from hand-coiled Vintage Bronze leather ends and hook with Copper/Brass chain and a rose-hip dangle with Swarovski crystals.
(Tutorial for the coiled bail from http://gailavira.etsy.com/)

20_ Teal/Gold/Purple - Bronze, Lampwork Beads,
Swarovski Crystals, Antiqued Bronze Wire
Click to Buy Me!

Necklace - Created this using a mold I made of a vintage pin. Used Bronze Clay, inset 2 fire-able CZs - Amythyst & Yellow Diamond. The Yellow Diamond lighted more than it was so it looks almost creamy clear. Then I took a piece of teal colored sea glass, smashed the crappola out of it and inset a small piece. Fired, tumbled, patina'd (carefully!!) w/ a torch to get some color on the lower wing and body. I added hand-made chain and Swarovski Crystals and Lampwork Spacers (by that bead girl). The chain on the necklace is purchased, the lampwork are all by that bead girl. The closure is also from Bronze clay. I'm SO excited that the piece worked w/ the crystals added in before firing - it opens up SOOO many more ideas for me!!

Earrings - used the lower wing of the butterfly for the earrings. These are done with hand made chain, Swarovski Crystals and again - Lampwork spacers by that bead girl. Hand-forged earring wires. If I had it to do over - and I prob will :o) I would add a crystal to one side of the wing and only two holes on the other side. I think they would dangle really pretty that way.

22_"Creamy Reds" - Pearls, Riverstone, Leopard Skin Jasper,
Swarovski Crystals, Sterling Silver
Click Here to Buy Earrings! - and - Click Here to Buy Bracelet!

Pulled this together quickly because I missed last weeks and 'needed' to do this! (LOL Afraid if I skip another week I'm doomed to skip all!) SO... I'm admitting that I was/am TOTALLY inspired by Jo Conway's beautiful LOOONNNG creamy pearl necklace that she posted in her shop this week.
(http://www.etsy.com/listing/72762044/long-glamourous-pearls)

Bracelet - Creamy little round ...Pearls, 6mm beigy/creme Riverstone, 8mm Black Diamond Swarovski round crystals, 8mm and 14mm Leopard Skin Jasper in cool reds, creams and black swirls. Finished off with 16g sterling silver "S" hook. Approx 8" finished.

Earrings - 8mm Leopard Skin Jasper, 6mm Black Diamond Swarovski Crystal rounds and 6mm beigy/creme Riverstone strung on hand made sterling silver earring wires. Approx 1 1/2" long

Thank you Jo for the inspiration! :o)



24_"Tropical Orange & Blue" Kazuri Beads, Lampwork Beads,
Swarovski Crystals, Copper & Brass Twisted Wire, Copper Viking Knit.

Bracelet - Hand-made copper viking knit chain w/ copper and brass twisted wire end caps. Decorated with two denim blue Kazuri ceramic beads, a large Swarovski Fire Opal Crystal and small Sapphire Swarovski Crystals, and two Orangie/Yellow lampwork bead spacers by that bead girl. Approx 7 1/2" finished.

Earrings - Hand-forged copper ear wires w/ copper and brass twisted jump rings from which dangle three small staggered lengths of chain with Swarovski Crystals (Fire Opal and Sapphire), a Clear AB Swarovski Crystal w/ Royal Blue lampwork spacer bead and Red Siam Swarovski Crystal w/ Orangie/Yellow lampwork spacer bead. Spacer beads by that bead girl. Approx 3" total.



25_Sea Green - Bracelet - Lampwork Beads, Swarovski Crystals,
Fine Silver, Hand-woven Sterling Silver Chain, African Jade.

I had some hand-woven sterling silver that I had made and used it for this bracelet. I used sterling silver wire to create the end caps for the chain and connected it to some sterling beading wire. The Lampwork Beads are gorgeous sea foam and pesto colored matte beads w/ silver made by Canyon Echoes Artisan Beads. They are combined with fine silver hand made bead caps w/ a carnation texture, four vintage pale green Swarovski Crystals and two larger black diamond Swarovski Crystals.

The center bead was created by me of fine silver and has a sea urchin texture. It's made with a large hole to fit over the viking chain but I wanted it to be the focal so I strung sterling beads and African Jade on the beading wire to go inside the fine silver bead. This allows the fine silver Urchin bead to slide back and forth and give it some movement.

28_Royal, Turquoise, White, Sand, Yellow - Lampwork, White Jade,
River Stone, Swarovski Crystals, Glass Beads, Sterling Silver.
SOLD...

Necklace - Lampwork beads by Firebabies, Focal by Bastille Bleu Lampwork, "Sea glass blue" spacers by Canyon Echoes Artisan Beads - tied together with beige River Stone and White Jade beads w/ silver balls. Hang on sterling silver rolo chain with a hand forged sterling silver s-hook. Small beads on hook and chain are crackled glass beads. Focal has Swarovski crystals in khaki, opal, sunflower, and sapphire.

Love how the lampwork from three different artists fell together in this set!! :o)

Some of these items are posted in my etsy shop - some are not -
if you are interested... let me know!! :o)

More Pics from My Enamel Vacation...

More photos from my vacation... :o)

First - fine silver pieces created - then the enameling starts. The last pic there... that's my teacher and new friend Pam... watching her work was inspirational.

John C Campbell Folk School...

(Left) View from my dorm;

(Right) Some of the studios (the enamel area is building on left);

Enamel Bead Class...